Village Matters
Our Correspondents produce stories which give an insight into the daily life of their village, places of interest, momentous events, the local donkey, issues of concern, "man bites dog" type stories - anything that helps the rest of us get a better understanding of the whole community of Apokoronas.
Nio Horio
Pete writes
On Tuesday evening, the Cultural Society of Nio Horio celebrated the United Nations International Day of Older People - the Third Age. 30 – 40 people of all ages packed into the Syllogos’ Hall for the event. I had been invited to represent Χείρα Βοηθείας and it was further recognition of our work.
Aglaia Galanaki, the tremendously energetic President of the Syllogos (whom we had met during the preparations for the Fun Run in August) welcomed us and guided us through the proceedings.
We began with the Blessing and Inauguration [εγκαίνια] of the Society’s new lending library – the ribbon cut by Mayor Grigoris Markakis after the traditional blessing by the priests. Aglaia, in her speech, spoke about the people who had made the work of the Syllogos a success and described the equipping of the library.
Vice-Mayor Manolis Nikoloudis made a thoughtful speech about the Third Age, about the contribution of Older People to Greece. He talked about the challenges we face as the proportion of Third Agers increases but this was in a positive way in the sense of respecting their contribution as well as the issues raised by the demographic changes.
A final segment, in the spirit of the day, was a ceremony of public recognition of the Boithia Sto Spiti Team ( Armenon).
Filia, the Social Worker member of the team, spoke eloquently about their work. Certificates were awarded to Filia, Athena and Agape with what was clearly a deeply felt affection and gratitude for all their efforts.
The event concluded with the traditional κέρασμα or treat. It was while we were enjoying the cakes and sweets that I was approached by a woman who sought me out to express her gratitude for the support Χείρα Βοηθείας is providing to her family. It was one of those moments when you realize just how important and appreciated the things are that we do - the money we collect (and that people give) and the food and essential items we distribute. It was great to accept her thanks on behalf of all of you.
Pete writes
On Tuesday evening, the Cultural Society of Nio Horio celebrated the United Nations International Day of Older People - the Third Age. 30 – 40 people of all ages packed into the Syllogos’ Hall for the event. I had been invited to represent Χείρα Βοηθείας and it was further recognition of our work.
Aglaia Galanaki, the tremendously energetic President of the Syllogos (whom we had met during the preparations for the Fun Run in August) welcomed us and guided us through the proceedings.
We began with the Blessing and Inauguration [εγκαίνια] of the Society’s new lending library – the ribbon cut by Mayor Grigoris Markakis after the traditional blessing by the priests. Aglaia, in her speech, spoke about the people who had made the work of the Syllogos a success and described the equipping of the library.
Vice-Mayor Manolis Nikoloudis made a thoughtful speech about the Third Age, about the contribution of Older People to Greece. He talked about the challenges we face as the proportion of Third Agers increases but this was in a positive way in the sense of respecting their contribution as well as the issues raised by the demographic changes.
A final segment, in the spirit of the day, was a ceremony of public recognition of the Boithia Sto Spiti Team ( Armenon).
Filia, the Social Worker member of the team, spoke eloquently about their work. Certificates were awarded to Filia, Athena and Agape with what was clearly a deeply felt affection and gratitude for all their efforts.
The event concluded with the traditional κέρασμα or treat. It was while we were enjoying the cakes and sweets that I was approached by a woman who sought me out to express her gratitude for the support Χείρα Βοηθείας is providing to her family. It was one of those moments when you realize just how important and appreciated the things are that we do - the money we collect (and that people give) and the food and essential items we distribute. It was great to accept her thanks on behalf of all of you.
Kefalas - it's a result!
Following the huge success of the Kefalas Event presented by the Toneel Drama Group on 6th September we were pleased to present the gross door takings to the leader of Kefalas village community, Mr.Dionysis Theodorakis, to be used to support the local community.
The amount handed over was 505 Euros. The picture shows Michael Bennett, event co-ordinator with Mr.Theodorakis.
Following the huge success of the Kefalas Event presented by the Toneel Drama Group on 6th September we were pleased to present the gross door takings to the leader of Kefalas village community, Mr.Dionysis Theodorakis, to be used to support the local community.
The amount handed over was 505 Euros. The picture shows Michael Bennett, event co-ordinator with Mr.Theodorakis.
Kefalas
Pete writes
Nearly 200 people attended an evening of entertainment organised by the Toneel Drama Group. The weather was kind and we sat in the lovely setting of the restored old school in Kefalas square on a warm balmy evening. The event was to raise funds for the Kefalas Community.
The evening began with a very polished production of the short comedy “Between Mouthfuls” by Alan Ayckbourn, directed by Peter Morton. This was followed by “A Mystery Tour” by Colin Calvert which was directed by Gill Pickering.
Johnny Bradshaw continued the comic thread to the evening with a set of humorous songs, and the evening was rounded off perfectly by young local Cretan musicians - Manthos Kouklakis on lyra and Kostas Gaitanakis on guitar.
Nearly 200 people attended an evening of entertainment organised by the Toneel Drama Group. The weather was kind and we sat in the lovely setting of the restored old school in Kefalas square on a warm balmy evening. The event was to raise funds for the Kefalas Community.
The evening began with a very polished production of the short comedy “Between Mouthfuls” by Alan Ayckbourn, directed by Peter Morton. This was followed by “A Mystery Tour” by Colin Calvert which was directed by Gill Pickering.
Johnny Bradshaw continued the comic thread to the evening with a set of humorous songs, and the evening was rounded off perfectly by young local Cretan musicians - Manthos Kouklakis on lyra and Kostas Gaitanakis on guitar.
Fres
A Traditional Πανηγύρι for the Assumption 2013
Justin writes
Two girls in their teens cross the village square apace, weaving between the empty white plastic tables with urgent expressions on their pretty faces, before disappearing into the darkness of a narrow alley at the far corner. Teenage boys, in black t-shirts with "FRES 2013" emblazoned in yellow across their backs, lug boxes of food across the top of the square, from the back of a lorry at one end to the women running preparations for the communal meal at the other.
This annual event for the village is taking place on the eve of the celebration of the Assumption of Mary - when Orthodox Christians believe the deceased mother of Jesus Christ was resurrected and transported - like her son before her - to the other place.
But there isn't much evidence of religion this evening -- only a few small children dancing around the white-painted tree in the centre of the square, accompanied by the loud hum of the generator and occasional bursts of bold music from the band tuning-up at the bottom. The children are watched casually - and occasionally summoned - by men and women sipping raki outside the tavernas at the square's edges.
The first few groups take their seats at 10.15pm, and by 10.30 almost all of the white tables are occupied -- the taverna chairs swiftly emptied. A handful of lighter-skinned or sun-burnt people emerge from the bottom corner of the square, and walk up to their table, shaking hands with people seated elsewhere, chatting and taking pictures.
Suddenly the square is full of warm, grand music. The uniformed teenagers dart from table to table with long trays like bagatelle boards, delivering bottles of cold retsina, large, dripping pork chops, salads and sprinklings of soggy chips. The girls seen earlier - the village beauties - are visiting the tables now, friendly smiles and dark eyelashes flickering as they sell raffle tickets to captivated men. The prize is either a trip to Athens or a goat, depending on the preference of the winner.
A handsome young man and a circle of women and children are involved in a traditional dance at the bottom of the square, in front of the band. The back and forth of the man's deliberate feet guides the others. The women's high-heels generally seem to master the steps, but the smaller shoes in the circle shuffle and hop about chaotically.
There is a break in the music -- the raffle draw is about to take place. A voice from the microphone announces the winner, and laughter and clapping fills the square.
The winner is one of the girls who was selling the tickets.
Jørgan adds
Giorgos Patsourakis, with his group, played the most wonderful music.
The most beautiful square in Apokoronas was the setting for music and socializing which made the evening a great experience.
It is amazing to experience the Greek tradition where all generations meet and celebrate together.
Justin writes
Two girls in their teens cross the village square apace, weaving between the empty white plastic tables with urgent expressions on their pretty faces, before disappearing into the darkness of a narrow alley at the far corner. Teenage boys, in black t-shirts with "FRES 2013" emblazoned in yellow across their backs, lug boxes of food across the top of the square, from the back of a lorry at one end to the women running preparations for the communal meal at the other.
This annual event for the village is taking place on the eve of the celebration of the Assumption of Mary - when Orthodox Christians believe the deceased mother of Jesus Christ was resurrected and transported - like her son before her - to the other place.
But there isn't much evidence of religion this evening -- only a few small children dancing around the white-painted tree in the centre of the square, accompanied by the loud hum of the generator and occasional bursts of bold music from the band tuning-up at the bottom. The children are watched casually - and occasionally summoned - by men and women sipping raki outside the tavernas at the square's edges.
The first few groups take their seats at 10.15pm, and by 10.30 almost all of the white tables are occupied -- the taverna chairs swiftly emptied. A handful of lighter-skinned or sun-burnt people emerge from the bottom corner of the square, and walk up to their table, shaking hands with people seated elsewhere, chatting and taking pictures.
Suddenly the square is full of warm, grand music. The uniformed teenagers dart from table to table with long trays like bagatelle boards, delivering bottles of cold retsina, large, dripping pork chops, salads and sprinklings of soggy chips. The girls seen earlier - the village beauties - are visiting the tables now, friendly smiles and dark eyelashes flickering as they sell raffle tickets to captivated men. The prize is either a trip to Athens or a goat, depending on the preference of the winner.
A handsome young man and a circle of women and children are involved in a traditional dance at the bottom of the square, in front of the band. The back and forth of the man's deliberate feet guides the others. The women's high-heels generally seem to master the steps, but the smaller shoes in the circle shuffle and hop about chaotically.
There is a break in the music -- the raffle draw is about to take place. A voice from the microphone announces the winner, and laughter and clapping fills the square.
The winner is one of the girls who was selling the tickets.
Jørgan adds
Giorgos Patsourakis, with his group, played the most wonderful music.
The most beautiful square in Apokoronas was the setting for music and socializing which made the evening a great experience.
It is amazing to experience the Greek tradition where all generations meet and celebrate together.
Fres
Children's Day
Jørgan reports
The Children’s Day was organized by the joint efforts and co-operation of the two Syllogoses of Fres – the Women’s Syllogos and the Syllogos of the Virgin Mary of the Two Rocks.
It was a good day.
There were relay races, egg and spoon races, face painting, pennant-making …
Children’s Entertainer Mr.Gordon "Maximus" Wilson lived up to his name and kept everyone entertained, particularly with his great balloon modelling skills.
There were refreshments and Diplomas for all the children who took part in this festive day.
Jørgan reports
The Children’s Day was organized by the joint efforts and co-operation of the two Syllogoses of Fres – the Women’s Syllogos and the Syllogos of the Virgin Mary of the Two Rocks.
It was a good day.
There were relay races, egg and spoon races, face painting, pennant-making …
Children’s Entertainer Mr.Gordon "Maximus" Wilson lived up to his name and kept everyone entertained, particularly with his great balloon modelling skills.
There were refreshments and Diplomas for all the children who took part in this festive day.
Fres
The Community has created its own Picnic Area
Jørgan writes
A group of volunteers from Fres has created a communal picnic area close to the village. Through their own efforts and co-operation, they have made it on the site of the communal πατητήρι (wine press) built by their grandfathers around 1950.
The official opening of the area was a very nice event, which attracted a large number of people. This beautiful place is for all who want to go into nature with friends and have a picnic.
There is just one condition of us – and that is to keep the place clean and tidy.
Jørgan writes
A group of volunteers from Fres has created a communal picnic area close to the village. Through their own efforts and co-operation, they have made it on the site of the communal πατητήρι (wine press) built by their grandfathers around 1950.
The official opening of the area was a very nice event, which attracted a large number of people. This beautiful place is for all who want to go into nature with friends and have a picnic.
There is just one condition of us – and that is to keep the place clean and tidy.
Douliana
"The Woodstock of the Apokoronas"
Alex writes
On Friday 2nd August the Livadoura festival at Douliana boasted an array of talented Greek bands and individual musicians. 8 bands in the lineup performed thrash metal, funk, blues, rock and jazz got underway early in the evening. The entertainment didn't let up till 4am the following morning.
Big thanks to the organisers who did a great job and the festival -much bigger and better than last year to raise money for Agia Sofia was a great success, with probably a couple of hundred people attending.
It was standing room only on a couple of occasions when chairs had to be sent for. It was a great venue, great music, great food and great people. After the official lineup had finished, people were still bopping at 4 am as the bands got together to jam.
Dog Pound Blues took the stage just before 2am and re-united with their great friend 'Dirty' Harry on lead guitar for this event. DPB played a dynamic set of blues and rock covers that had the crowd baying for more -so they duly obliged- inspiring the youthful and mainly Greek audience to dance all night and had to restrain some from diving from the stage into a mosh-pit....
A great little festival that is getting bigger and better every year - here's to Livadoura 2014 !!
Cheers
Alex
Alex writes
On Friday 2nd August the Livadoura festival at Douliana boasted an array of talented Greek bands and individual musicians. 8 bands in the lineup performed thrash metal, funk, blues, rock and jazz got underway early in the evening. The entertainment didn't let up till 4am the following morning.
Big thanks to the organisers who did a great job and the festival -much bigger and better than last year to raise money for Agia Sofia was a great success, with probably a couple of hundred people attending.
It was standing room only on a couple of occasions when chairs had to be sent for. It was a great venue, great music, great food and great people. After the official lineup had finished, people were still bopping at 4 am as the bands got together to jam.
Dog Pound Blues took the stage just before 2am and re-united with their great friend 'Dirty' Harry on lead guitar for this event. DPB played a dynamic set of blues and rock covers that had the crowd baying for more -so they duly obliged- inspiring the youthful and mainly Greek audience to dance all night and had to restrain some from diving from the stage into a mosh-pit....
A great little festival that is getting bigger and better every year - here's to Livadoura 2014 !!
Cheers
Alex
Fres celebrates
the Unification of Crete with Greece in 1913
Pete writes
Last night, Sunday, more than 100 people gathered in the courtyard of the Church in Fres to mark the 100th Anniversary of events which directly led to the unification of Crete with Greece in 1913.
Proceedings began with a short religious service in front of the monument in the memorial garden to the church.
There followed speeches and messages of greetings for the event from a wide range of organizations – The Municipality of Apokoronas, The Crete Regional Authority, The Foundation of Agia Sofia, the local Associations (Syllogoi) and several others.
Ms.Zacharenia Simentaraki, a notable expert on the history of the period, delivered a lecture entitled “The Revolution of 1878 and the Chalepa Agreement”.She held the attention of her audience and received great applause.
I had been invited as a representative of Χείρα Βοηθείας. This was in recognition of our work to make a positive contribution to our community. We were welcomed by the politicians of all parties, by Anastasios Pagonakis, the President of the Syllogos «Η ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑ ΤΩΝ ΔΥΟ ΒΡΑΧΩΝ» (who helped us understand what was going on!) and by Aikaterina Mathioudaki, the President of the Women’s Syllogos of Fres.
The event culminated in a wonderful feast of traditional treats.
Last night, Sunday, more than 100 people gathered in the courtyard of the Church in Fres to mark the 100th Anniversary of events which directly led to the unification of Crete with Greece in 1913.
Proceedings began with a short religious service in front of the monument in the memorial garden to the church.
There followed speeches and messages of greetings for the event from a wide range of organizations – The Municipality of Apokoronas, The Crete Regional Authority, The Foundation of Agia Sofia, the local Associations (Syllogoi) and several others.
Ms.Zacharenia Simentaraki, a notable expert on the history of the period, delivered a lecture entitled “The Revolution of 1878 and the Chalepa Agreement”.She held the attention of her audience and received great applause.
I had been invited as a representative of Χείρα Βοηθείας. This was in recognition of our work to make a positive contribution to our community. We were welcomed by the politicians of all parties, by Anastasios Pagonakis, the President of the Syllogos «Η ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑ ΤΩΝ ΔΥΟ ΒΡΑΧΩΝ» (who helped us understand what was going on!) and by Aikaterina Mathioudaki, the President of the Women’s Syllogos of Fres.
The event culminated in a wonderful feast of traditional treats.
Litsarda Folklore Museum
Jo writes
Whenever I mention I live in Litsarda, the response is usually that is where the pizzeria is! However, this summer there is an additional attraction in the village, in the village house opposite to the church there is a Folklore Museum. It is full of interesting things reflecting the history and culture of village life, but what impressed me most is that the young people of the village have been involved in finding and collecting the exhibits and on the two occasions I’ve visited it is young people that have welcomed me and told me about the different exhibits. How refreshing to have the younger generation interested in their own culture and history, so please come and support them!
The exhibition is open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday evenings 6.00 - 9.00pm until 20th August.
Special thanks to Georgia and Yiannis.
Whenever I mention I live in Litsarda, the response is usually that is where the pizzeria is! However, this summer there is an additional attraction in the village, in the village house opposite to the church there is a Folklore Museum. It is full of interesting things reflecting the history and culture of village life, but what impressed me most is that the young people of the village have been involved in finding and collecting the exhibits and on the two occasions I’ve visited it is young people that have welcomed me and told me about the different exhibits. How refreshing to have the younger generation interested in their own culture and history, so please come and support them!
The exhibition is open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday evenings 6.00 - 9.00pm until 20th August.
Special thanks to Georgia and Yiannis.
The Loutro Taverna (Agioi Pantes/Vrises)
Robert writes
My wife and I have lived happily in Apokoronas since 2004 and our yellow Landrover Freelander has taken us off the beaten track in search of the best of traditional foods and friendly service.
The Loutro Taverna we found early on, behind a pretty roadside church, our eyes caught by the summer shade sails strung from tree to tree. The setting and foods we took to immediately but on early visits the welcome factor sadly lacked at times, yet we persisted.
But now the exceptional skills of Sifis, the Chef Owner have been added to by Ariadne, who's bright eyed front of house skills have transformed this Taverna to become possibly the best quality eating place that we have found to date.
This fine eating house does not attempt to compete on price as a low cost diner and quite rightly so, with foods served of this quality a slightly higher price tag for goods supplied is not only to be expected but well deserved.
The menus may have a ring of familiarity but the flair and imagination in production, presentation and taste can only be experienced to be appreciated.
My wife and I have lived happily in Apokoronas since 2004 and our yellow Landrover Freelander has taken us off the beaten track in search of the best of traditional foods and friendly service.
The Loutro Taverna we found early on, behind a pretty roadside church, our eyes caught by the summer shade sails strung from tree to tree. The setting and foods we took to immediately but on early visits the welcome factor sadly lacked at times, yet we persisted.
But now the exceptional skills of Sifis, the Chef Owner have been added to by Ariadne, who's bright eyed front of house skills have transformed this Taverna to become possibly the best quality eating place that we have found to date.
This fine eating house does not attempt to compete on price as a low cost diner and quite rightly so, with foods served of this quality a slightly higher price tag for goods supplied is not only to be expected but well deserved.
The menus may have a ring of familiarity but the flair and imagination in production, presentation and taste can only be experienced to be appreciated.
Abandoned Village Matters: MOURI
Jenny writes
Not far from the abandoned village of Mouri in the Sfakian mountains, the 14th century church of Timios Stavros lies at the top of the Kavis gorge. There is fresh water in a nearby cave which made it an ideal hiding place for the three Kalergi brothers, who led the uprising against the Venetians in 1365. The monument at the cave is testament to their arrest at this site on April 12th two years later. They were subsequently executed in Chania.
There are a number of ways of approaching the kalderimi which leads down to Timios Stavros but, on Sunday June 16th 2013, Sfakian taxis from Anopoli sufficed; thin sheets of foam rubber having been thoughtfully provided on the cross-benches of the pick-ups as a concession to the two-legged passengers.
Part way down the Kavis gorge towards Ilingas, Basia’s cave was a convenient resting point. Basia is reputed to have been a colleague of Daskalogiannis who was born in Anopoli.
After the floods of December 2000, the gorge acquired some impressive rock-falls which provided interesting scrambling en route to the beach and taverna at Ilingas.
*********
Not far from the abandoned village of Mouri in the Sfakian mountains, the 14th century church of Timios Stavros lies at the top of the Kavis gorge. There is fresh water in a nearby cave which made it an ideal hiding place for the three Kalergi brothers, who led the uprising against the Venetians in 1365. The monument at the cave is testament to their arrest at this site on April 12th two years later. They were subsequently executed in Chania.
There are a number of ways of approaching the kalderimi which leads down to Timios Stavros but, on Sunday June 16th 2013, Sfakian taxis from Anopoli sufficed; thin sheets of foam rubber having been thoughtfully provided on the cross-benches of the pick-ups as a concession to the two-legged passengers.
Part way down the Kavis gorge towards Ilingas, Basia’s cave was a convenient resting point. Basia is reputed to have been a colleague of Daskalogiannis who was born in Anopoli.
After the floods of December 2000, the gorge acquired some impressive rock-falls which provided interesting scrambling en route to the beach and taverna at Ilingas.
*********
Plaka and Almyrida
Hello - just to let you know that the Sylogos, Friends of Plaka and Almyrida have recently presented the kindergarten with a fridge for the children's drinks and snacks.
Also, the Mayor of the Apokoronas will come to Harokopos Taverna in Plaka Square tomorrow evening at 8pm to officially install the de-fibrillator machine the sylogos raised money for - everybody is welcome.
Julie Elleray
Secretary
Also, the Mayor of the Apokoronas will come to Harokopos Taverna in Plaka Square tomorrow evening at 8pm to officially install the de-fibrillator machine the sylogos raised money for - everybody is welcome.
Julie Elleray
Secretary
Around Georgioupolis
Mike writes
The summer has arrived early this year and not a lot of snow is left on the mountains.
The village is still awaiting the influx of tourists that it was said should be expected this year. There are some but not enough, although it is early days. I do hope that these very hospitable villagers will earn a better income from tourists than they did last year.
Easter was late but the usual Lamb roast went off well. ‘Mikes Oasis’ on the beach went off a treat and with the usual panache. Free lamb, jacket potato & salad plus free wine. The only rule being, to eat, take a turn on the spit.
The new beach road has now been completed & straightened out. All the beach Taverns offer value for money & the ‘Sunlight’ is always particularly welcoming. In the village there is always a smile & a warm welcome at ‘Sinatra’s Bar, British owned & very competitive in price. Pete & Katie will give you a breakfast to die for!
From the village you are only a 15 minute drive to ‘Lake Kournas’, the only freshwater lake in Crete. For peace & tranquility it is second to none. Enjoy!
The summer has arrived early this year and not a lot of snow is left on the mountains.
The village is still awaiting the influx of tourists that it was said should be expected this year. There are some but not enough, although it is early days. I do hope that these very hospitable villagers will earn a better income from tourists than they did last year.
Easter was late but the usual Lamb roast went off well. ‘Mikes Oasis’ on the beach went off a treat and with the usual panache. Free lamb, jacket potato & salad plus free wine. The only rule being, to eat, take a turn on the spit.
The new beach road has now been completed & straightened out. All the beach Taverns offer value for money & the ‘Sunlight’ is always particularly welcoming. In the village there is always a smile & a warm welcome at ‘Sinatra’s Bar, British owned & very competitive in price. Pete & Katie will give you a breakfast to die for!
From the village you are only a 15 minute drive to ‘Lake Kournas’, the only freshwater lake in Crete. For peace & tranquility it is second to none. Enjoy!
Samaria Run
Jenny writes
Raptors hovering in the vicinity of the Samaria Gorge spied a strange sight on Sunday, May 12th, as assorted runners tackled the 17.6 kilometre Samaria Run. The route starts at 1200 metres and rises to 1250 metres at Xiloskala, before dropping down to Ayiou Nikolaou at 666 metres. The runners then go up the side of the gorge to Poria and on to the Kallergi Refuge at 1600 metres. From here, it is downhill to the finish at Xiloskala – not a race for the faint-hearted.
The 2013 winner finished in 1 hour 50 minutes, the slowest finished in just over five hours and the oldest participant was 85 year old Stelios, a Mountain Club member.
Members of the Mountain Club met at 6.30 a.m. in Chania to be up at Omalos by 8 a.m., in order to man the various check-points and water stations. An enjoyable and successful day was rounded off with a party for runners and helpers.
Raptors hovering in the vicinity of the Samaria Gorge spied a strange sight on Sunday, May 12th, as assorted runners tackled the 17.6 kilometre Samaria Run. The route starts at 1200 metres and rises to 1250 metres at Xiloskala, before dropping down to Ayiou Nikolaou at 666 metres. The runners then go up the side of the gorge to Poria and on to the Kallergi Refuge at 1600 metres. From here, it is downhill to the finish at Xiloskala – not a race for the faint-hearted.
The 2013 winner finished in 1 hour 50 minutes, the slowest finished in just over five hours and the oldest participant was 85 year old Stelios, a Mountain Club member.
Members of the Mountain Club met at 6.30 a.m. in Chania to be up at Omalos by 8 a.m., in order to man the various check-points and water stations. An enjoyable and successful day was rounded off with a party for runners and helpers.
SFAKIAN EASTER
Jenny
writes
The Orthodox Easter is always celebrated with much joy and enthusiasm, but rarely more so than this year when it almost coincided with the first day of May, a day of spring and optimism. Many Easter rituals and symbols, such as the egg, pre-date the Christian era and have their origins in the ancient Fire Festival of Beltane that accompanies the arrival of spring.
The ancient spirit lives within us
Unwillingly concealed;
The Great Pan did not die,
No; Pan does not die!
There are few better places to enjoy the exuberance of Easter festivities than Sfakia. From Agia Roumeli to Chora Sfakion, and beyond, eggs are dyed red, feasts are prepared, bon-fires and effigies constructed. Whether approaching a village by sea or land, a Sfakian Easter is a unique and memorable experience.
At Easter and throughout the year, after negotiating the E4 coastal path or arriving by road or ferry, the Taverna Nikos at Chora Sfakion offers delicious Cretan, home-cooked food, as well as a hospitable welcome from the Braoudakis family, epitomised in the word φιλοξενιά.
The Orthodox Easter is always celebrated with much joy and enthusiasm, but rarely more so than this year when it almost coincided with the first day of May, a day of spring and optimism. Many Easter rituals and symbols, such as the egg, pre-date the Christian era and have their origins in the ancient Fire Festival of Beltane that accompanies the arrival of spring.
The ancient spirit lives within us
Unwillingly concealed;
The Great Pan did not die,
No; Pan does not die!
There are few better places to enjoy the exuberance of Easter festivities than Sfakia. From Agia Roumeli to Chora Sfakion, and beyond, eggs are dyed red, feasts are prepared, bon-fires and effigies constructed. Whether approaching a village by sea or land, a Sfakian Easter is a unique and memorable experience.
At Easter and throughout the year, after negotiating the E4 coastal path or arriving by road or ferry, the Taverna Nikos at Chora Sfakion offers delicious Cretan, home-cooked food, as well as a hospitable welcome from the Braoudakis family, epitomised in the word φιλοξενιά.
Vrysses
Χριστός Ανέστη !
Pete writes
Shortly before midnight, all lights were extinguished and the church is lit only by the Eternal Flame on the altar. When the clock passes midnight, the Priest calls out "Χριστός Ανέστη" (Christ is risen), and passes the flame, the light of the Resurrection, to those nearest him. The flame is then passed from person to person, and soon the church and courtyard were filled with flickering candlelight. As soon as " Χριστός Ανέστη " was called out, the church bells rang joyously non-stop and a huge bonfire was lit,accompanied by fireworks and the inevitable thunderflashes.
It is the custom to carry the Eternal Flame home and use it to make the sign of the cross on the door frame in smoke. The smoke cross is left there throughout the year, symbolising that the light of the Resurrection has blessed the home. The sight of hundreds of candle flames moving from churches to homes on that night was fantastic!
Courtesy of About.com. For more go to http://greekfood.about.com/od/festivalsholidays/a/easter_2.htm
Pete writes
Shortly before midnight, all lights were extinguished and the church is lit only by the Eternal Flame on the altar. When the clock passes midnight, the Priest calls out "Χριστός Ανέστη" (Christ is risen), and passes the flame, the light of the Resurrection, to those nearest him. The flame is then passed from person to person, and soon the church and courtyard were filled with flickering candlelight. As soon as " Χριστός Ανέστη " was called out, the church bells rang joyously non-stop and a huge bonfire was lit,accompanied by fireworks and the inevitable thunderflashes.
It is the custom to carry the Eternal Flame home and use it to make the sign of the cross on the door frame in smoke. The smoke cross is left there throughout the year, symbolising that the light of the Resurrection has blessed the home. The sight of hundreds of candle flames moving from churches to homes on that night was fantastic!
Courtesy of About.com. For more go to http://greekfood.about.com/od/festivalsholidays/a/easter_2.htm
Plaka and Almyrida
Materials for the Kindergarten
Julie writes
The Syllogos, Friends of Plaka and Almyrida, which is made up of Greek, German, Norweigian, Belgian, Swedish, English and many other nationalities is nearly two years old!
Over this time we have achieved many things and had great fun! We have organised coach trips and visits to places of interest, provided much needed equipment for Plaka Kindergarten School, held cookery demonstrations to learn and enjoy the way each of our cultures love their food! We have learned how to collect and cook horta and other traditional Greek dishes. We greeted the Horse Club of Chania with Raki and mezes in Plaka on their way to Kokkino Chorio for their blessing in the church and the cutting of the Basilopita.
We held two very successful Apokries Parties, held games’ afternoons and a quiz night, French boules competitions, had a visiting Syllogos present star gazing evenings and generally had lots of fun integrating with each other. We held a very well supported First Aid demonstration kindly presented by one of the doctors from the American Base in Souda which spurred us on to our greatest achievement so far.
After learning how helpful a de-fibrillator can be in the event of a sudden cardiac arrest, we raised the money for a de-fibrillator machine for Plaka and Almyrida. We will have a Doctor from the American base who will demonstrate its use and it will be sited so that it is available for anybody to use 24/7 (obviously we hope it never will be needed!). As we are aware that we are quite a way from emergency medical help should it be needed, a further First Aid demonstration on the 17th of May in Totem Bar in Plaka which will be presented by Dr Elizabeth from Vamos and include CPR and basic first aid skills.
We would like to thank everybody who has helped us to achieve this goal. Local businesses and individuals have supported us with prizes for raffles etc and have been very generous with donations of food, raki and, of course, money.
Julie Elleray -Secretary
SYLLOGOS “FRIENDS OF PLAKA AND ALMYRIDA”
The Syllogos, Friends of Plaka and Almyrida, which is made up of Greek, German, Norweigian, Belgian, Swedish, English and many other nationalities is nearly two years old!
Over this time we have achieved many things and had great fun! We have organised coach trips and visits to places of interest, provided much needed equipment for Plaka Kindergarten School, held cookery demonstrations to learn and enjoy the way each of our cultures love their food! We have learned how to collect and cook horta and other traditional Greek dishes. We greeted the Horse Club of Chania with Raki and mezes in Plaka on their way to Kokkino Chorio for their blessing in the church and the cutting of the Basilopita.
We held two very successful Apokries Parties, held games’ afternoons and a quiz night, French boules competitions, had a visiting Syllogos present star gazing evenings and generally had lots of fun integrating with each other. We held a very well supported First Aid demonstration kindly presented by one of the doctors from the American Base in Souda which spurred us on to our greatest achievement so far.
After learning how helpful a de-fibrillator can be in the event of a sudden cardiac arrest, we raised the money for a de-fibrillator machine for Plaka and Almyrida. We will have a Doctor from the American base who will demonstrate its use and it will be sited so that it is available for anybody to use 24/7 (obviously we hope it never will be needed!). As we are aware that we are quite a way from emergency medical help should it be needed, a further First Aid demonstration on the 17th of May in Totem Bar in Plaka which will be presented by Dr Elizabeth from Vamos and include CPR and basic first aid skills.
We would like to thank everybody who has helped us to achieve this goal. Local businesses and individuals have supported us with prizes for raffles etc and have been very generous with donations of food, raki and, of course, money.
Julie Elleray -Secretary
SYLLOGOS “FRIENDS OF PLAKA AND ALMYRIDA”
The School Bazaar of Georgioupolis
Erie reports:
On Saturday, April 13, 2013, from 8am to 8pm the School Bazaar of Georgioupolis took place in the square of Georgioupolis. The bazaar was organized by the mothers, the teachers and the students of the local grammar school and kindergarten, as well as the Syllogos of Women of Georgioupolis, since many of the members are active in both.
Starting very early in the morning to have everything ready, and after a preparation of two months, we were able to present Easter goods for sale, in order to assist the efforts of our school improvement. The money that has already been collected at the Christmas bazaar as well as at this one is going to help buy two interactive boards for the classrooms; another four are needed. We need to fix the toilets and the drinking water supply, secure the school against theft, place iron benches in the school yard, buy sport equipment and cd players for the classrooms, the painting of the school and the list of needs is even longer, since the government has reduced the budget for schools but we, the parents, do not agree with the debasement of education.
All the goods not sold in this bazaar are going to be put up for sale again in the bazaar of Great Friday in Vrises on May 3rd. We would like to thank everyone who contributed in order to realize this effort and we hope people will keep supporting our cause.
Το Σάββατο 13 Απριλίου 2013, από τις 8πμ έως τις 8μμ το Σχολικό Παζάρι Γεωργιούπολης έλαβε χώρα στην πλατεία της Γεωργιούπολης. Το παζάρι οργανώθηκε από γονείς, δασκάλους και μαθητές του τοπικού Δημοτικού σχολείου και Νηπιαγωγείου καθώς και από μέλη του Συλλόγου Γυναικών, εφόσον πολλά μέλη του είναι κοινά με αυτά του Σχολικού, και ενεργά και στους δύο.
Ξεκινώντας πολύ νωρίς το πρωί ώστε να είναι τα πάντα έτοιμα έγκαιρα και μετά από δίμηνη προετοιμασία μπορέσαμε να παρουσιάσουμε τα Πασχαλινά αγαθά μας προς πώληση με σκοπό να ενισχύσουμε της προσπάθειες βελτίωσης του σχολείου. Τα χρήματα που έχουν συγκεντρωθεί από αυτό και το Χριστουγεννιάτικο Παζάρι προκειται να βοηθήσουν στην αγορά 2 διαδραστικών πινάκων για τις τάξεις ενώ χρειάζονται άλλοι 4, να επισκευαστούν οι βρύσες και οι τουαλέτες, να θωρακιστεί το σχολείο από κλοπή,να τοποθετηθούν σιδερένια παγκάκια στην αυλή, να αγοραστεί αθλητικός εξοπλισμός και cd-player για τις τάξεις, να βαφτεί το σχολείο και η λίστα των αναγκών είναι ακόμα μακρύτερη, εφόσον το κράτος έχει μειώσει κατά πολύ τον προϋπολογισμό για τα σχολεία, όμως εμείς οι γονείς δεν συμφωνούμε με την υποβάθμιση της παιδείας.
Όλα τα αγαθά που δεν πωλήθηκαν σε αυτό το παζάρι, πρόκειται να εκτεθούν προς πώληση ξανά στο παζάρι της Μεγάλης Παρασκευής, στις Βρύσες. Θα θέλαμε να ευχαριστήσουμε όσους συνέβαλλαν στην πραγματοποίηση της προσπάθειάς μας και ελπίζουμε οι άνθρωποι να συνεχίσουν να υποστηρίζουν το σκοπό μας.
On Saturday, April 13, 2013, from 8am to 8pm the School Bazaar of Georgioupolis took place in the square of Georgioupolis. The bazaar was organized by the mothers, the teachers and the students of the local grammar school and kindergarten, as well as the Syllogos of Women of Georgioupolis, since many of the members are active in both.
Starting very early in the morning to have everything ready, and after a preparation of two months, we were able to present Easter goods for sale, in order to assist the efforts of our school improvement. The money that has already been collected at the Christmas bazaar as well as at this one is going to help buy two interactive boards for the classrooms; another four are needed. We need to fix the toilets and the drinking water supply, secure the school against theft, place iron benches in the school yard, buy sport equipment and cd players for the classrooms, the painting of the school and the list of needs is even longer, since the government has reduced the budget for schools but we, the parents, do not agree with the debasement of education.
All the goods not sold in this bazaar are going to be put up for sale again in the bazaar of Great Friday in Vrises on May 3rd. We would like to thank everyone who contributed in order to realize this effort and we hope people will keep supporting our cause.
Το Σάββατο 13 Απριλίου 2013, από τις 8πμ έως τις 8μμ το Σχολικό Παζάρι Γεωργιούπολης έλαβε χώρα στην πλατεία της Γεωργιούπολης. Το παζάρι οργανώθηκε από γονείς, δασκάλους και μαθητές του τοπικού Δημοτικού σχολείου και Νηπιαγωγείου καθώς και από μέλη του Συλλόγου Γυναικών, εφόσον πολλά μέλη του είναι κοινά με αυτά του Σχολικού, και ενεργά και στους δύο.
Ξεκινώντας πολύ νωρίς το πρωί ώστε να είναι τα πάντα έτοιμα έγκαιρα και μετά από δίμηνη προετοιμασία μπορέσαμε να παρουσιάσουμε τα Πασχαλινά αγαθά μας προς πώληση με σκοπό να ενισχύσουμε της προσπάθειες βελτίωσης του σχολείου. Τα χρήματα που έχουν συγκεντρωθεί από αυτό και το Χριστουγεννιάτικο Παζάρι προκειται να βοηθήσουν στην αγορά 2 διαδραστικών πινάκων για τις τάξεις ενώ χρειάζονται άλλοι 4, να επισκευαστούν οι βρύσες και οι τουαλέτες, να θωρακιστεί το σχολείο από κλοπή,να τοποθετηθούν σιδερένια παγκάκια στην αυλή, να αγοραστεί αθλητικός εξοπλισμός και cd-player για τις τάξεις, να βαφτεί το σχολείο και η λίστα των αναγκών είναι ακόμα μακρύτερη, εφόσον το κράτος έχει μειώσει κατά πολύ τον προϋπολογισμό για τα σχολεία, όμως εμείς οι γονείς δεν συμφωνούμε με την υποβάθμιση της παιδείας.
Όλα τα αγαθά που δεν πωλήθηκαν σε αυτό το παζάρι, πρόκειται να εκτεθούν προς πώληση ξανά στο παζάρι της Μεγάλης Παρασκευής, στις Βρύσες. Θα θέλαμε να ευχαριστήσουμε όσους συνέβαλλαν στην πραγματοποίηση της προσπάθειάς μας και ελπίζουμε οι άνθρωποι να συνεχίσουν να υποστηρίζουν το σκοπό μας.
Georgioupolis
Mike writes
Here in Georgioupoli all is well and work to make the village & its beaches attractive to our visitors is well advanced. You can be sure of a warm Cretan welcome.
Please tell all your UK friends to ignore the so called ‘newspaper’ reports that slag off Greece. We ARE in good shape & you WILL get value for money. You will meet some of the most hospitable people in the world!
Weather wise, it has been an early start to the summer and already there have been days in the high 20c. Already the melt has begun on the ‘White Mountains’.
Sinatra’s Bar in the village will offer you a breakfast to die for. They also have a weekly quiz night under the evil eye of Dave Bowman. Hearing his questions, we believe that he is a direct descendant of Ghengis Khan. The owners, Kate & Peter will do their very best to make you feel at home. They also host table top sales.
There are many Taverns in our lovely fishing village that offer very good food and drink at competitive prices.
I leave you with a photograph to tickle your senses.
Have a lovely day out in our village.
Here in Georgioupoli all is well and work to make the village & its beaches attractive to our visitors is well advanced. You can be sure of a warm Cretan welcome.
Please tell all your UK friends to ignore the so called ‘newspaper’ reports that slag off Greece. We ARE in good shape & you WILL get value for money. You will meet some of the most hospitable people in the world!
Weather wise, it has been an early start to the summer and already there have been days in the high 20c. Already the melt has begun on the ‘White Mountains’.
Sinatra’s Bar in the village will offer you a breakfast to die for. They also have a weekly quiz night under the evil eye of Dave Bowman. Hearing his questions, we believe that he is a direct descendant of Ghengis Khan. The owners, Kate & Peter will do their very best to make you feel at home. They also host table top sales.
There are many Taverns in our lovely fishing village that offer very good food and drink at competitive prices.
I leave you with a photograph to tickle your senses.
Have a lovely day out in our village.
Kalyves Carnival 2013 Καλυβιανό Καρναβάλι 2013
Kalyves Carnival - Sunday 17.3.2013 - the last day before Clean Monday and the beginning of Lent. Linda and Pete have sent us some photos.
Nippos
Pete writes
More than 50 people attended the traditional Basilopita Cutting organised by Η Περβολίτσια -The Women’s Syllogos of Nippos last Sunday at their headquarters in the former school yard in Nippos.
After the brief religious service, the Mayor, Grigoris Markakis praised the work of the Women’ Syllogos and emphasised the importance of the community organisations for the future of Apokoronas. Several Vice-Mayors and Municipal Councillors also attended.
As you probably know the word “Basilopita” means the sweet 'bread of Basil'. This age old tradition dates from the 4th Century AD, when Saint Basil the Great, then a Bishop, wanted to distribute money to the poor in his Diocese. He commissioned some sweetened bread to be made, in which he arranged gold coins to be placed. So the families in cutting the bread to feed themselves, were pleasantly surprised to find the coins. Today, when the “bread” is cut, the individual who receives that portion of the cake,with the coin in it, is considered particularly blessed.
The Basilopita or Cake of Basil symbolises the hope that the New Year will be filled with the sweetness of life, liberty, health, and happiness for all those present.
Once the Basilopita had been cut, a wonderful spread of food was produced – all made beautifully by the women of the Syllogos.
Η Κοπή της Βασιλόπιτας στο Νίππος
Περισσότερα από 50 άτομα παρακολούθησαν την κοπή της παραδοσιακής Βασιλόπιτας που ο Σύλλογος Γυναικών Νίππους «Περβολίτσια» διοργάνωσε την Κυριακή 24 Φεβρουαρίου, 2013 στην έδρα τους - στην αυλή του Σχολείου στο Νίππος.
Μετά από τη σύντομη θρησκευτική τελετή, ο δήμαρχος, κ. Γρηγόρης Μαρκάκης εξήρε τα έργα του Συλλόγου των Γυναικών και τόνισε τη σημασία των φορέων της κοινότητας για το μέλλον του Αποκόρωνα. Επίσης συμμετείχαν αρκετοί αντιδήμαρχοι - δημοτικοί σύμβουλοι.
Όπως ίσως γνωρίζετε «Βασιλόπιτα» σημαίνει: το γλυκό «ψωμί του Βασίλη». Αυτή η παληά παράδοση χρονολογείται από τον 4ο αιώνα μ. Χ. Όταν ο Άγιος Βασίλειος ο Μέγας, Επίσκοπος Καισαρείας ήθελε να διανείμει τα χρήματα των βαρέων φόρων του Ιουλιανού του Παραβάτη στούς φτωχούς της Επισκοπής του καί ανέθεσε να φτιάξουν ένα γλυκό ψωμί που μέσα του τοποθετούνταν χρυσά νομίσματα. Έτσι οι οικογένειες όταν έκοβαν το ψωμί για να το φάνε, είχαν την ευχάριστη έκπληξη να βρούν τα νομίσματα. Σήμερα, όταν κόβεται το «ψωμί» το άτομο που λαμβάνει το τμήμα του κέικ που έχει μέσα το κέρμα, θεωρείται ιδιαίτερα ευλογημένος.
Η Βασιλόπιτα η «το κέικ του Βασίλη» συμβολίζει την ελπίδα ότι το νέο έτος θα είναι πλήρες με τη γλυκύτητα της ζωής, της ελευθερίας, της υγείας και ευτυχίας για όλους τους παρευρισκόμενους.
Μόλις κόπηκε η πίτα, είχαμε μια πανδαισία υπέροχων φαγητών, όλα γίνοται όμορφα από τις γυναικες του Συλλόγου.
More than 50 people attended the traditional Basilopita Cutting organised by Η Περβολίτσια -The Women’s Syllogos of Nippos last Sunday at their headquarters in the former school yard in Nippos.
After the brief religious service, the Mayor, Grigoris Markakis praised the work of the Women’ Syllogos and emphasised the importance of the community organisations for the future of Apokoronas. Several Vice-Mayors and Municipal Councillors also attended.
As you probably know the word “Basilopita” means the sweet 'bread of Basil'. This age old tradition dates from the 4th Century AD, when Saint Basil the Great, then a Bishop, wanted to distribute money to the poor in his Diocese. He commissioned some sweetened bread to be made, in which he arranged gold coins to be placed. So the families in cutting the bread to feed themselves, were pleasantly surprised to find the coins. Today, when the “bread” is cut, the individual who receives that portion of the cake,with the coin in it, is considered particularly blessed.
The Basilopita or Cake of Basil symbolises the hope that the New Year will be filled with the sweetness of life, liberty, health, and happiness for all those present.
Once the Basilopita had been cut, a wonderful spread of food was produced – all made beautifully by the women of the Syllogos.
Η Κοπή της Βασιλόπιτας στο Νίππος
Περισσότερα από 50 άτομα παρακολούθησαν την κοπή της παραδοσιακής Βασιλόπιτας που ο Σύλλογος Γυναικών Νίππους «Περβολίτσια» διοργάνωσε την Κυριακή 24 Φεβρουαρίου, 2013 στην έδρα τους - στην αυλή του Σχολείου στο Νίππος.
Μετά από τη σύντομη θρησκευτική τελετή, ο δήμαρχος, κ. Γρηγόρης Μαρκάκης εξήρε τα έργα του Συλλόγου των Γυναικών και τόνισε τη σημασία των φορέων της κοινότητας για το μέλλον του Αποκόρωνα. Επίσης συμμετείχαν αρκετοί αντιδήμαρχοι - δημοτικοί σύμβουλοι.
Όπως ίσως γνωρίζετε «Βασιλόπιτα» σημαίνει: το γλυκό «ψωμί του Βασίλη». Αυτή η παληά παράδοση χρονολογείται από τον 4ο αιώνα μ. Χ. Όταν ο Άγιος Βασίλειος ο Μέγας, Επίσκοπος Καισαρείας ήθελε να διανείμει τα χρήματα των βαρέων φόρων του Ιουλιανού του Παραβάτη στούς φτωχούς της Επισκοπής του καί ανέθεσε να φτιάξουν ένα γλυκό ψωμί που μέσα του τοποθετούνταν χρυσά νομίσματα. Έτσι οι οικογένειες όταν έκοβαν το ψωμί για να το φάνε, είχαν την ευχάριστη έκπληξη να βρούν τα νομίσματα. Σήμερα, όταν κόβεται το «ψωμί» το άτομο που λαμβάνει το τμήμα του κέικ που έχει μέσα το κέρμα, θεωρείται ιδιαίτερα ευλογημένος.
Η Βασιλόπιτα η «το κέικ του Βασίλη» συμβολίζει την ελπίδα ότι το νέο έτος θα είναι πλήρες με τη γλυκύτητα της ζωής, της ελευθερίας, της υγείας και ευτυχίας για όλους τους παρευρισκόμενους.
Μόλις κόπηκε η πίτα, είχαμε μια πανδαισία υπέροχων φαγητών, όλα γίνοται όμορφα από τις γυναικες του Συλλόγου.
Kokkino Horio
Bob writes
KOKKINO HORIO is one of those sleepy little villages in Apokoronas where nothing much really happens from one year to the next. But things are changing.
After a year of our regularly cleaning up outside the Glass Factory, the general public seems to be getting the idea and most people now put their bottles INSIDE the factory gates instead of littering the ground outside with dead bottles, plastic bags etc. A Success Story.
Similarly, after some time cleaning up around the rubbish bins in the village, someone else other than Anna and me is taking a turn and the result is a pretty clean area which was previously littered with plastics, bottles and cardboard. All we have to do now is to try to persuade the council rubbish men to close the lids of the bins to keep out the cats who scatter the bin contents far and wide, and we will feel we really are winning!
Some time ago we encouraged Giorgios Voreinakis who owns and runs our village minimarket to apply for a container for used batteries. In less than a year, the plastic tube provided by AFIS was full and just recently emptied. We have no idea how many batteries there were in there, but Giorgios reported the weight was 23kg. Wow!
KOKKINO HORIO is one of those sleepy little villages in Apokoronas where nothing much really happens from one year to the next. But things are changing.
After a year of our regularly cleaning up outside the Glass Factory, the general public seems to be getting the idea and most people now put their bottles INSIDE the factory gates instead of littering the ground outside with dead bottles, plastic bags etc. A Success Story.
Similarly, after some time cleaning up around the rubbish bins in the village, someone else other than Anna and me is taking a turn and the result is a pretty clean area which was previously littered with plastics, bottles and cardboard. All we have to do now is to try to persuade the council rubbish men to close the lids of the bins to keep out the cats who scatter the bin contents far and wide, and we will feel we really are winning!
Some time ago we encouraged Giorgios Voreinakis who owns and runs our village minimarket to apply for a container for used batteries. In less than a year, the plastic tube provided by AFIS was full and just recently emptied. We have no idea how many batteries there were in there, but Giorgios reported the weight was 23kg. Wow!
Today, 28th December, Giorgios has taken us by surprise. As a result of browsing through a catalogue of recycling aids, he is now proudly sporting a green bin outside his shop, provided to collect redundant small electrical items whilst inside the shop he has two cardboard containers – one for used fluorescent lights and one for ordinary round bulbs.
Recycling is taking off in Kokkino Horio thanks to persistent effort and the initiative of one young Greek resident. May his example provide a spur to other youngsters in the village to begin to take a pride in the place! Well done Giorgios.
Recycling is taking off in Kokkino Horio thanks to persistent effort and the initiative of one young Greek resident. May his example provide a spur to other youngsters in the village to begin to take a pride in the place! Well done Giorgios.
Georgioupolis
Mike writes
December again, doesn’t time fly by?
The village is in its normal winter mode .Relaxing after a very busy season although not as brisk as it has been in the past.
Hopefully, with air fares getting lower our Taverna & restaurant trade will pick up in 2013. The printed media, especially in the UK are guilty of publishing down right lies about the situation in Greece. Come here & enjoy a hospitable & friendly holiday at a competitive price!
Sinatra’s bar, just off the square in our village is an English run bar with a good ex-pat clientele & also an increasing following of local Greeks. Do make a point of dropping in. Over the holiday period they are open on Wednesday for Bingo from 1pm. Thursday is the quiz from 1pm. Saturday & Sunday from 12 Noon. Christmas day & Boxing day open from 12 Noon.
New year eve an optional fancy dress party with a FREE BUFFET!!!
Now for the real nitty gritty.
We, all of us, are now in a global community. Let us all try to live together as one.
My wish for you all, no matter what colour, creed or nationality is very simple.
May you all have a new year filled with love, compassion, peace and tolerance !
May your own faith go with you & bring you Peace.
See you next month. Kind regards, Mike Abraham.
December again, doesn’t time fly by?
The village is in its normal winter mode .Relaxing after a very busy season although not as brisk as it has been in the past.
Hopefully, with air fares getting lower our Taverna & restaurant trade will pick up in 2013. The printed media, especially in the UK are guilty of publishing down right lies about the situation in Greece. Come here & enjoy a hospitable & friendly holiday at a competitive price!
Sinatra’s bar, just off the square in our village is an English run bar with a good ex-pat clientele & also an increasing following of local Greeks. Do make a point of dropping in. Over the holiday period they are open on Wednesday for Bingo from 1pm. Thursday is the quiz from 1pm. Saturday & Sunday from 12 Noon. Christmas day & Boxing day open from 12 Noon.
New year eve an optional fancy dress party with a FREE BUFFET!!!
Now for the real nitty gritty.
We, all of us, are now in a global community. Let us all try to live together as one.
My wish for you all, no matter what colour, creed or nationality is very simple.
May you all have a new year filled with love, compassion, peace and tolerance !
May your own faith go with you & bring you Peace.
See you next month. Kind regards, Mike Abraham.
Kallikratis
Jenny writes
It’s likely that many readers will associate the name of Kallikratis with the plan for administrative reform rather than the small village in the Sfakian mountains. The village is said to have taken its name from Manoussos Kallikratis, who led a campaign to reinforce the defence of Constantinople in March 1453. In 1770, it was destroyed during Daskalogiannis' revolt against the Turkish occupation of Crete. More recently, on October 8th 1941, thirty men of the village were executed and the women and children taken hostage during reprisals for local resistance against the occupying forces.
Kallikratis can be reached by road from Imbros or from the National Road via Episkopi and Myriokefala. A small, zig-zag road up from the Kapsodasos area near Patsianos is a very scenic alternative with panoramic views of the plain around Frangokastello and the Libyan sea beyond. Another option is to walk up the old kalderimi in the Kallikratis Gorge, part of the E4, while enjoying the views, wildlife and the scent of the varied flora, such as the healing, aromatic dittany, en route.
Soon after emerging from the gorge, there’s the welcome sight of the Wild Herbs of Crete sign. Janina and Babis collect and distil essential oils from the wild aromatic plants which grow in remote areas of Crete. At their café, they provide visitors and villagers alike with a choice of malotira, coffee, homemade lemonade or organic wine. To ensure that mind, body and spirit are completely refreshed before continuing, is even possible to have a delicious evening meal, lovingly prepared with fresh produce by Janina, and to spend the night in one of the guest rooms, with views of the sun setting over the mountains.
It’s likely that many readers will associate the name of Kallikratis with the plan for administrative reform rather than the small village in the Sfakian mountains. The village is said to have taken its name from Manoussos Kallikratis, who led a campaign to reinforce the defence of Constantinople in March 1453. In 1770, it was destroyed during Daskalogiannis' revolt against the Turkish occupation of Crete. More recently, on October 8th 1941, thirty men of the village were executed and the women and children taken hostage during reprisals for local resistance against the occupying forces.
Kallikratis can be reached by road from Imbros or from the National Road via Episkopi and Myriokefala. A small, zig-zag road up from the Kapsodasos area near Patsianos is a very scenic alternative with panoramic views of the plain around Frangokastello and the Libyan sea beyond. Another option is to walk up the old kalderimi in the Kallikratis Gorge, part of the E4, while enjoying the views, wildlife and the scent of the varied flora, such as the healing, aromatic dittany, en route.
Soon after emerging from the gorge, there’s the welcome sight of the Wild Herbs of Crete sign. Janina and Babis collect and distil essential oils from the wild aromatic plants which grow in remote areas of Crete. At their café, they provide visitors and villagers alike with a choice of malotira, coffee, homemade lemonade or organic wine. To ensure that mind, body and spirit are completely refreshed before continuing, is even possible to have a delicious evening meal, lovingly prepared with fresh produce by Janina, and to spend the night in one of the guest rooms, with views of the sun setting over the mountains.
Georgioupolis
Mike writes
Although our village is now, like most places, very subdued and in winter mode, there is a lot going on.
Part of one of the major hotel complexes is being demolished to make way for the new sewage system. The building was situated on municipal land without any authority and was therefore illegal. Our new council appears to be doing what it said it would.
Xeira Boetheias’ funds [Helping Hand] are administrated by the Reverend Tony Lane. The fund has already peaked in excess of €10,000 of which nearly €2,000 was spent in November’s distribution and during the winter months much more will be done with distribution being made every 6-8 weeks. Blankets and sleeping bags are also on the agenda.
Please, please, keep up your donations as every cent helps these lovely and deserving Cretan folk. I am happy to confirm that ALL monies are safe and in good hands and that a statement can be read in ‘Sinatra’s’ bar in our village.
A lot of ex-pats have left the Island. Why?
The grass back in their homeland is withering and certainly NOT greener than here. Ignore the printed media who never let the truth get in the way of a good [profitable] by line.
See you all next month.
Best wishes from Mike
Although our village is now, like most places, very subdued and in winter mode, there is a lot going on.
Part of one of the major hotel complexes is being demolished to make way for the new sewage system. The building was situated on municipal land without any authority and was therefore illegal. Our new council appears to be doing what it said it would.
Xeira Boetheias’ funds [Helping Hand] are administrated by the Reverend Tony Lane. The fund has already peaked in excess of €10,000 of which nearly €2,000 was spent in November’s distribution and during the winter months much more will be done with distribution being made every 6-8 weeks. Blankets and sleeping bags are also on the agenda.
Please, please, keep up your donations as every cent helps these lovely and deserving Cretan folk. I am happy to confirm that ALL monies are safe and in good hands and that a statement can be read in ‘Sinatra’s’ bar in our village.
A lot of ex-pats have left the Island. Why?
The grass back in their homeland is withering and certainly NOT greener than here. Ignore the printed media who never let the truth get in the way of a good [profitable] by line.
See you all next month.
Best wishes from Mike
Vrysses
Jenny writes
ΟΧΙ! DAY
In Vrysses, as in cities, towns and villages across Greece, the annual «Οχι! Day» celebrations took place on Sunday, October 28th.
Parades, orations, music and the laying of numerous bay laurel wreaths by young and old, served to commemorate General Metaxas’ reply of «Οχι!» to Mussolini's request to allow his troops to enter Greece in October 1940: a confirmation of Greek spirit and pride and an indication to the younger generation of how the memory should be preserved.
There is an alternative version of Metaxas’ response but "Alors, c'est la guerre" is a little unwieldy in comparison.
There may have been additional vehemence to «Οχι!» this year, in light of the swingeing austerity measures inflicted on the people, but the Cretans’ ability to enjoy a festive occasion with family and friends remains undimmed by any threatening economic clouds.
ΟΧΙ! DAY
In Vrysses, as in cities, towns and villages across Greece, the annual «Οχι! Day» celebrations took place on Sunday, October 28th.
Parades, orations, music and the laying of numerous bay laurel wreaths by young and old, served to commemorate General Metaxas’ reply of «Οχι!» to Mussolini's request to allow his troops to enter Greece in October 1940: a confirmation of Greek spirit and pride and an indication to the younger generation of how the memory should be preserved.
There is an alternative version of Metaxas’ response but "Alors, c'est la guerre" is a little unwieldy in comparison.
There may have been additional vehemence to «Οχι!» this year, in light of the swingeing austerity measures inflicted on the people, but the Cretans’ ability to enjoy a festive occasion with family and friends remains undimmed by any threatening economic clouds.
Georgioupolis
Mike writes
I must apologise for the lack of a September report. It was due to my good lady having major surgery.
Medical news for ex-pats. My own very good experience five years ago of having a bypass operation at Heraklion University hospital was confirmed at Chania General when my wife underwent major surgery. In both cases a visit to a doctor resulted in surgery on the same day.
At its best, the Greek IKA system is superior to the British NHS and, at its worst, it is certainly equal to it.
The photographs from the fifth floor smoking balcony of Chania hospital show a view that would be the envy of many hotel penthouse suites costing a lot of money!
I will be back on time next month, till then, may your faith go with you all and may you enjoy a peaceful life.
Mike
I must apologise for the lack of a September report. It was due to my good lady having major surgery.
Medical news for ex-pats. My own very good experience five years ago of having a bypass operation at Heraklion University hospital was confirmed at Chania General when my wife underwent major surgery. In both cases a visit to a doctor resulted in surgery on the same day.
At its best, the Greek IKA system is superior to the British NHS and, at its worst, it is certainly equal to it.
The photographs from the fifth floor smoking balcony of Chania hospital show a view that would be the envy of many hotel penthouse suites costing a lot of money!
I will be back on time next month, till then, may your faith go with you all and may you enjoy a peaceful life.
Mike
The High Desert Matters
Jenny writes
From Xiloskala to Kallergi Mountain Refuge, for a feast of spaghetti bolognaise and a good night’s sleep before heading off for Melindaou. Soon after descending from the peak, a shepherd’s mitato came into view, offering shade and shelter from the midday sun. In the cool interior, illuminated by a shaft of sunlight glancing off a burnished copper, a freshly-shot hare was simmering, ready to be enjoyed with the local wine and tzikoudia. News was exchanged and debated until the sun began to lose its intensity and it was time to move on towards the night’s accommodation; the shepherd’s mitato at Katsiveli, deep in the High Desert moonscape.
Once more, Cretan hospitality prevailed. No photos are needed to recapture the image of the one-eyed shepherd, attacking the goat he had prepared for the evening meal with a lethal-looking knife while oil-lamps flickered round the ancient stone walls. The food supplies, now surplus to requirements, were left as a token of gratitude the following morning.
Between Trocharis and Kakovoli, the shepherd’s two sons were ascending with a mule heavily-laden with supplies. On emerging onto a short stretch of track, it became apparent that a mule-shuttle was in operation. The temptation to borrow the second mule for the onward journey to Anopoli, down the winding gorge that passes by Vigla, was difficult to resist.
From Anopoli, the old kalderimi led down towards the bottom of the Ilingas gorge before continuing on to Chora Sfakion. For earlier generations, this would have been the only means of transit between the two villages. Now, these old paths and mountain routes enable present-day trekkers to explore a unique landscape, where the way of life has continued largely unchanged for centuries, and to gain a fresh perspective on life away from the stresses and distractions of so-called civilisation – or, as translated on the Mountain Club web-site, “The countryside gives health, joy, optimism and offers you innumerable and unforgettable beauties”.
From Xiloskala to Kallergi Mountain Refuge, for a feast of spaghetti bolognaise and a good night’s sleep before heading off for Melindaou. Soon after descending from the peak, a shepherd’s mitato came into view, offering shade and shelter from the midday sun. In the cool interior, illuminated by a shaft of sunlight glancing off a burnished copper, a freshly-shot hare was simmering, ready to be enjoyed with the local wine and tzikoudia. News was exchanged and debated until the sun began to lose its intensity and it was time to move on towards the night’s accommodation; the shepherd’s mitato at Katsiveli, deep in the High Desert moonscape.
Once more, Cretan hospitality prevailed. No photos are needed to recapture the image of the one-eyed shepherd, attacking the goat he had prepared for the evening meal with a lethal-looking knife while oil-lamps flickered round the ancient stone walls. The food supplies, now surplus to requirements, were left as a token of gratitude the following morning.
Between Trocharis and Kakovoli, the shepherd’s two sons were ascending with a mule heavily-laden with supplies. On emerging onto a short stretch of track, it became apparent that a mule-shuttle was in operation. The temptation to borrow the second mule for the onward journey to Anopoli, down the winding gorge that passes by Vigla, was difficult to resist.
From Anopoli, the old kalderimi led down towards the bottom of the Ilingas gorge before continuing on to Chora Sfakion. For earlier generations, this would have been the only means of transit between the two villages. Now, these old paths and mountain routes enable present-day trekkers to explore a unique landscape, where the way of life has continued largely unchanged for centuries, and to gain a fresh perspective on life away from the stresses and distractions of so-called civilisation – or, as translated on the Mountain Club web-site, “The countryside gives health, joy, optimism and offers you innumerable and unforgettable beauties”.
SOUTH COAST VILLAGE MATTERS
E4
Jenny writes
The influx of North-Europeans to the Apokoronas area in the late 20th and early 21st centuries fortunately bears little resemblance to the South coast forays by Barbarossa and his fellow corsairs in the 16th century. In 1539, Barbarossa destroyed Selino Kastelli, the old name for Paleochora.
The Dorian city of Elyros and its two harbours, Sougia and Lissos, flourished in the Hellenistic, Roman and First Byzantine periods.
Elyros was sufficiently wealthy from manufacturing and trading weapons to mint its own coins while much of Lissos’ wealth was derived from those who travelled to the shrine of Asklepios, to benefit from its healing water spring. Hygeia, usually depicted holding a serpent in her hands, was worshipped in conjunction with her father, Asklepios, as the goddess of good health. The symbol of the serpent-entwined rod, wielded by Asklepios, continues to be associated with healing and medicine.
On Sunday, there was the opportunity to meld ancient and modern when the Chania Mountain Club organised a walk from Sougia to Paleochora via Lissos, where the healing waters were sampled before continuing on the E4 to Gialiskari, to swim and relax. It’s not on record whether either the corsairs or the visitors to the shrine of Asklepios indulged in either activity but each is to be recommended, especially when combined with the conviviality of a Mountain Club day.
The influx of North-Europeans to the Apokoronas area in the late 20th and early 21st centuries fortunately bears little resemblance to the South coast forays by Barbarossa and his fellow corsairs in the 16th century. In 1539, Barbarossa destroyed Selino Kastelli, the old name for Paleochora.
The Dorian city of Elyros and its two harbours, Sougia and Lissos, flourished in the Hellenistic, Roman and First Byzantine periods.
Elyros was sufficiently wealthy from manufacturing and trading weapons to mint its own coins while much of Lissos’ wealth was derived from those who travelled to the shrine of Asklepios, to benefit from its healing water spring. Hygeia, usually depicted holding a serpent in her hands, was worshipped in conjunction with her father, Asklepios, as the goddess of good health. The symbol of the serpent-entwined rod, wielded by Asklepios, continues to be associated with healing and medicine.
On Sunday, there was the opportunity to meld ancient and modern when the Chania Mountain Club organised a walk from Sougia to Paleochora via Lissos, where the healing waters were sampled before continuing on the E4 to Gialiskari, to swim and relax. It’s not on record whether either the corsairs or the visitors to the shrine of Asklepios indulged in either activity but each is to be recommended, especially when combined with the conviviality of a Mountain Club day.
Kokkino Horio - an example to us all
Before and After – is this OK?
Bob writes:
Two months ago Anna and I started a recycling experiment in the village and asked the local taverna owner Giannis to save and give to us all the empty water bottles they have when they clear the tables.
In that time we have collected about 2,500 bottles from this taverna which we squash and take to Mike Scriven ( a member of the Environment Group) who passes them on to support a family living near Galatas. They process the plastic and then sell it on to a neighbouring factory which uses the stuff to produce industrial strength plastic bags.
By doing this we are supporting a family and ensuring that the plastic bottles are properly recycled (not just dumped in a landfill site) and made into something useful.
Practical recycling in action!
We also collect from Atlantis Beach Bar and O Lagos Taverna in Almyrida – but that’s another story!
Two months ago Anna and I started a recycling experiment in the village and asked the local taverna owner Giannis to save and give to us all the empty water bottles they have when they clear the tables.
In that time we have collected about 2,500 bottles from this taverna which we squash and take to Mike Scriven ( a member of the Environment Group) who passes them on to support a family living near Galatas. They process the plastic and then sell it on to a neighbouring factory which uses the stuff to produce industrial strength plastic bags.
By doing this we are supporting a family and ensuring that the plastic bottles are properly recycled (not just dumped in a landfill site) and made into something useful.
Practical recycling in action!
We also collect from Atlantis Beach Bar and O Lagos Taverna in Almyrida – but that’s another story!
August in Georgioupolis
Mike writes
An uneventful month as far as ‘Man bites Dog’ goes.
Katie Shaw & Peter Homewood [owners of Sinatra’s Bar] have excelled themselves in the rescue of puppies. Two left by the side of a road, now thankfully re-homed. Today [25th] Katie’s dog sniffed out three more sealed in a sack by the banks of the Almyros river. They are now looking for new and kindly owners. When will people stop treating animals like garbage?
The beaches are busy but the ‘all inclusive’ type of holiday is starving the village. Content to drink cheaply and dine on reheated food, these holiday makers with plastic wrist bands do not spend any money in the village. It is a shame.
A Greek friend with a Taverna on the beach is 60% down on takings but, with typical Greek pragmatism, said, “It will be better next year”.
I hope so.
Friends tell me that it is the hottest summer in 20 years. I do believe them. My wife and I have been living with three large fans as constant company.
September 23rd will see a large car boot sale [in aid of Xeira Boetheias. Ed] on the village quay car park. Come and enjoy picking up some bargains or selling what you do not need.
See you next month
Mike
An uneventful month as far as ‘Man bites Dog’ goes.
Katie Shaw & Peter Homewood [owners of Sinatra’s Bar] have excelled themselves in the rescue of puppies. Two left by the side of a road, now thankfully re-homed. Today [25th] Katie’s dog sniffed out three more sealed in a sack by the banks of the Almyros river. They are now looking for new and kindly owners. When will people stop treating animals like garbage?
The beaches are busy but the ‘all inclusive’ type of holiday is starving the village. Content to drink cheaply and dine on reheated food, these holiday makers with plastic wrist bands do not spend any money in the village. It is a shame.
A Greek friend with a Taverna on the beach is 60% down on takings but, with typical Greek pragmatism, said, “It will be better next year”.
I hope so.
Friends tell me that it is the hottest summer in 20 years. I do believe them. My wife and I have been living with three large fans as constant company.
September 23rd will see a large car boot sale [in aid of Xeira Boetheias. Ed] on the village quay car park. Come and enjoy picking up some bargains or selling what you do not need.
See you next month
Mike
Georgioupoli 22nd July.
Mike writes :
A few moons ago, a lady Scot and a friend thought up an idea to help the poor in our area of Crete. It has taken off, big time. Local priests have co-operated in ensuring that poor people in the area are helped out without seeming to give charity. The Greeks are a proud people and one has to be careful in offering help. Collecting boxes for food were placed in shops; sealed cash boxes were handy to place money in. Other boxes enabled us to deposit other items.
Sunday night, the result of many sometimes haphazard plans and dreams came together. It was phenomenal. All of those who contributed to this evening [including the Council ] gave their services free of charge. The Rethymnon Youth Orchestra were magnificent. Some of their offerings brought a lump to the throat. The applause was as generous as the money that went into the collection boxes, and rightly so. I have to say, as a very humble ex pat, that the Greek people, as poor as they may be, are still as generous and giving as they ever were. Bless them all. The photos show that lovely evening.
A few moons ago, a lady Scot and a friend thought up an idea to help the poor in our area of Crete. It has taken off, big time. Local priests have co-operated in ensuring that poor people in the area are helped out without seeming to give charity. The Greeks are a proud people and one has to be careful in offering help. Collecting boxes for food were placed in shops; sealed cash boxes were handy to place money in. Other boxes enabled us to deposit other items.
Sunday night, the result of many sometimes haphazard plans and dreams came together. It was phenomenal. All of those who contributed to this evening [including the Council ] gave their services free of charge. The Rethymnon Youth Orchestra were magnificent. Some of their offerings brought a lump to the throat. The applause was as generous as the money that went into the collection boxes, and rightly so. I have to say, as a very humble ex pat, that the Greek people, as poor as they may be, are still as generous and giving as they ever were. Bless them all. The photos show that lovely evening.
TZITZIFES TO VAPHES
Jenny writes :
In days of yore, before the expertise of Edward Butler and John McAdam combined to make inroads into the natural landscape, there was little option but to travel from one village to another by means of two legs or four.
It’s a pleasant walk along an agricultural road, only partly macadamised, which leads from the large church in Tzitzifes to Vaphes but there’s something special about approaching from the foothills of the Lefka Ori, to see a cluster of hill-top dwellings come into view on rounding a bend in the track.
Almost opposite the tyrokomeion [cheese factory] closest to Taverna Rizitiko, an old kalderimi starts to meander its way up towards Lakoudhia, affording wonderful views en route and then towards Korda and Agia Pnevma Fres. Before reaching Arevitis, a rough track contours round the hillside to join the road that leads from Achatzikia to Vaphes.
Vaphes has a long and proud history of resistance against oppression. The ossuary shrine at the entrance to the Krionerida cave is a poignant memorial to one hundred and thirty men, women and children who were asphyxiated by the Turks in 1821. More recently,1941-1942, the home of Nico Vandoulakis became known as the British Consulate because of his assistance to the likes of Xan Fielding, Tom Dunbabin, Patrick Leigh-Fermor and, of course, George Psychoundakis.
After visiting the cave and maybe the church of Agioi Asomatoi, where adjacent excavations have been dated to the 6th or 7th century, allow time to enjoy some Cretan hospitality at the one of the kafeneions or the Taverna Kourtsa, which dates from the early 17th century, before taking the low road back to the church in Tzitzifes.
Posted 14.07.12
In days of yore, before the expertise of Edward Butler and John McAdam combined to make inroads into the natural landscape, there was little option but to travel from one village to another by means of two legs or four.
It’s a pleasant walk along an agricultural road, only partly macadamised, which leads from the large church in Tzitzifes to Vaphes but there’s something special about approaching from the foothills of the Lefka Ori, to see a cluster of hill-top dwellings come into view on rounding a bend in the track.
Almost opposite the tyrokomeion [cheese factory] closest to Taverna Rizitiko, an old kalderimi starts to meander its way up towards Lakoudhia, affording wonderful views en route and then towards Korda and Agia Pnevma Fres. Before reaching Arevitis, a rough track contours round the hillside to join the road that leads from Achatzikia to Vaphes.
Vaphes has a long and proud history of resistance against oppression. The ossuary shrine at the entrance to the Krionerida cave is a poignant memorial to one hundred and thirty men, women and children who were asphyxiated by the Turks in 1821. More recently,1941-1942, the home of Nico Vandoulakis became known as the British Consulate because of his assistance to the likes of Xan Fielding, Tom Dunbabin, Patrick Leigh-Fermor and, of course, George Psychoundakis.
After visiting the cave and maybe the church of Agioi Asomatoi, where adjacent excavations have been dated to the 6th or 7th century, allow time to enjoy some Cretan hospitality at the one of the kafeneions or the Taverna Kourtsa, which dates from the early 17th century, before taking the low road back to the church in Tzitzifes.
Posted 14.07.12
Fres and Tzitzifres : An Introduction
Jenny writes
In the villages of Fres and Tzitzifes, nestled in the foothills of the White Mountains, the traditional, Cretan way of life continues. It’s only a few minutes’ drive to the National Road and all points east and west and yet a world away from the bustle and hubbub of the tourist areas. Here, the pace of life is gentle, in sync with the seasons and liturgical calendar, with just the sounds of sheep, church bells, buzzards and the occasional, celebratory burst of a kalashnikov or uzi.
The plateia at Fres is a popular place to meet and relax over a coffee or tzikoudia. From the archway in the plateia, it’s a short walk to the upper part of the village and the church of Madonna of the Two Rocks - perched on two large rocks and surrounded by well-tended, terraced gardens. From there, a path leads up to St. Antonius' cave, with panoramic views to Souda Bay and the Akrotiri. More paths and old mule-tracks continue into the White Mountains while others link the neighbouring villages of Melidoni towards the west and Tzitzifes and Vaphes to the east.
On reaching Tzitzifes, the weary walker is provided with a choice of tavernas at which to recharge the batteries. Both Tzitzifia and Rizitiko offer a warm welcome and a wide range of authentic, home-made Cretan dishes. The taverna Tzitzifia and the village of Tzitzifes itself derive their names from the tzitzifia tree, known as jujube in English. The fruit of the tree is reputed to have a very high Vitamin C content. Mountains, beautiful views towards Georgioupolis and Psiloritis, copious supplies of clear water, friendly people, good food and wine and Vitamin C – what more could anyone want?
In the villages of Fres and Tzitzifes, nestled in the foothills of the White Mountains, the traditional, Cretan way of life continues. It’s only a few minutes’ drive to the National Road and all points east and west and yet a world away from the bustle and hubbub of the tourist areas. Here, the pace of life is gentle, in sync with the seasons and liturgical calendar, with just the sounds of sheep, church bells, buzzards and the occasional, celebratory burst of a kalashnikov or uzi.
The plateia at Fres is a popular place to meet and relax over a coffee or tzikoudia. From the archway in the plateia, it’s a short walk to the upper part of the village and the church of Madonna of the Two Rocks - perched on two large rocks and surrounded by well-tended, terraced gardens. From there, a path leads up to St. Antonius' cave, with panoramic views to Souda Bay and the Akrotiri. More paths and old mule-tracks continue into the White Mountains while others link the neighbouring villages of Melidoni towards the west and Tzitzifes and Vaphes to the east.
On reaching Tzitzifes, the weary walker is provided with a choice of tavernas at which to recharge the batteries. Both Tzitzifia and Rizitiko offer a warm welcome and a wide range of authentic, home-made Cretan dishes. The taverna Tzitzifia and the village of Tzitzifes itself derive their names from the tzitzifia tree, known as jujube in English. The fruit of the tree is reputed to have a very high Vitamin C content. Mountains, beautiful views towards Georgioupolis and Psiloritis, copious supplies of clear water, friendly people, good food and wine and Vitamin C – what more could anyone want?
Celebrating Kaina-style
Trisha writes
All last week the women of Kaina were chopping and frying, baking and basting, mixing and tasting. And the reason for this culinary mastery? Thanks to our enterprising residents, Kaina came together to celebrate the feast of St John the Baptist and we even had a raffle – first prize, a live sheep!
Tables were laid in the school grounds, barbecues set up, music and lighting organized. Three small bonfires were arranged in a row. Each family arrived laden with trays of food, which were laid out on trestle tables ready for the feast. Then the fun began. Suddenly, the bonfires were alight and people were throwing the dying flower wreaths, woven on the 1st May, into the flames. First, the bravest young men started to run and leap over the roaring flames, and then as they died down, the women and smaller children had a go until there was a procession of people braving the smoke and embers.
A large ceramic pot was draped in a cloth, inside which people had placed a small personal item. Each was drawn and a bawdy Mantinade sung – sadly our Greek wasn’t up to understanding what was said but the laughter was uproarious.
Then the feast began, with copious wine and more singing. Dancing accompanied by some of Kaina’s fine young musicians followed and continued into the night. We are so happy to have been included in our village’s celebrations and we are proud to be residents of Kaina.
All last week the women of Kaina were chopping and frying, baking and basting, mixing and tasting. And the reason for this culinary mastery? Thanks to our enterprising residents, Kaina came together to celebrate the feast of St John the Baptist and we even had a raffle – first prize, a live sheep!
Tables were laid in the school grounds, barbecues set up, music and lighting organized. Three small bonfires were arranged in a row. Each family arrived laden with trays of food, which were laid out on trestle tables ready for the feast. Then the fun began. Suddenly, the bonfires were alight and people were throwing the dying flower wreaths, woven on the 1st May, into the flames. First, the bravest young men started to run and leap over the roaring flames, and then as they died down, the women and smaller children had a go until there was a procession of people braving the smoke and embers.
A large ceramic pot was draped in a cloth, inside which people had placed a small personal item. Each was drawn and a bawdy Mantinade sung – sadly our Greek wasn’t up to understanding what was said but the laughter was uproarious.
Then the feast began, with copious wine and more singing. Dancing accompanied by some of Kaina’s fine young musicians followed and continued into the night. We are so happy to have been included in our village’s celebrations and we are proud to be residents of Kaina.
Georgioupoli. North West Crete.
The sheep have been sheared and the farmers have had their party. Took some photo’s, was grabbed and told to sit. Fed and wined and given a takeout for my wife. Even in these hard times the Greeks are still remarkably hospitable and generous.
Tourism this year is down due to adverse foreign media publicity. Our Greek friends put on a brave smile and say they will cope. The Beaches are still relatively busy however and our 7 miles of sands are covered in roasting bodies.
The snow on the White Mountains has almost gone, just a few deep gullies holding on till the last.
The tourists are their usual ‘holiday’ selves. Wandering the streets and not really knowing what to do next. I suppose the truth is that money is a bit short. Us residents just sit and people watch. I do wish that some of them had respect and wrapped a sarong around their bikinis when in the village.
The village Pelican which loved people but was injured and kidnapped by young people has recovered and is living in the wetlands of Northern Greece. May she thrive in safety!
Back next month.
Mike Posted 26.06.12
Tourism this year is down due to adverse foreign media publicity. Our Greek friends put on a brave smile and say they will cope. The Beaches are still relatively busy however and our 7 miles of sands are covered in roasting bodies.
The snow on the White Mountains has almost gone, just a few deep gullies holding on till the last.
The tourists are their usual ‘holiday’ selves. Wandering the streets and not really knowing what to do next. I suppose the truth is that money is a bit short. Us residents just sit and people watch. I do wish that some of them had respect and wrapped a sarong around their bikinis when in the village.
The village Pelican which loved people but was injured and kidnapped by young people has recovered and is living in the wetlands of Northern Greece. May she thrive in safety!
Back next month.
Mike Posted 26.06.12
Georgioupoli.
I have been used to deadlines of seven days or more. Not this time. Our editor, Pete Sheppard, wanted this item yesterday. So, here we go with an introduction to the lovely fishing village of Georgioupoli in North West Crete.
As the months go by there will be a lot more bits and pieces to titillate the mind.
With 850 inhabitants, our wee village is, in the winter, a haven of tranquillity. This all changes during the tourist season when we are invaded by, so it seems, most of Europe. I have no doubt that the Greeks have a phrase for ‘Damn Grockles’, but are much too diplomatic to use it. Tourism is our life blood.
With seven kilometres of pristine sands one can pick and choose where to laze about and get a tan. There is always a beach tavern to supply a much needed cool drink or three. Much like any other Cretan village the local folk are the salt of the earth and are quick to give a welcome, a big smile and offer genuine friendship.
The village square is pedestrianised after five pm and folk can sit on the benches and relax under the stern gaze of the bust of Miltiadis Papadogiannis who was the first mayor of Georgioupolis.
I have been used to deadlines of seven days or more. Not this time. Our editor, Pete Sheppard, wanted this item yesterday. So, here we go with an introduction to the lovely fishing village of Georgioupoli in North West Crete.
As the months go by there will be a lot more bits and pieces to titillate the mind.
With 850 inhabitants, our wee village is, in the winter, a haven of tranquillity. This all changes during the tourist season when we are invaded by, so it seems, most of Europe. I have no doubt that the Greeks have a phrase for ‘Damn Grockles’, but are much too diplomatic to use it. Tourism is our life blood.
With seven kilometres of pristine sands one can pick and choose where to laze about and get a tan. There is always a beach tavern to supply a much needed cool drink or three. Much like any other Cretan village the local folk are the salt of the earth and are quick to give a welcome, a big smile and offer genuine friendship.
The village square is pedestrianised after five pm and folk can sit on the benches and relax under the stern gaze of the bust of Miltiadis Papadogiannis who was the first mayor of Georgioupolis.
The harbour, at the mouth of the Almerios River is still a busy fishing port. Many people go to the harbour where fresh fish is sold as it comes ashore from the boats.
The many local taverns will always give good value for money and in future editions I will be able to introduce you to them. For now, just two of them will be mentioned, one Greek and one English owned.
‘Blue Moon’ is right on the river bank and a fantastic place to sit on a summer evening. Cool and relaxing one can sit and watch the geese or the tourist peddle boats and forget all of the worlds’ problems. Yannis, the owner is proud, and rightly so, of his service. Always a smile and a greeting and always that little extra in the way of a free snack. Just off the square is an English run tavern. Sinatra’s is owned by Peter and Katie. Lovely atmosphere and a breakfast to die for. Quiz nights and bingo and anything else they can think of.
I have to go. I am over my allotted word space. See you all next time.
Mike Posted 17th June 2012
The many local taverns will always give good value for money and in future editions I will be able to introduce you to them. For now, just two of them will be mentioned, one Greek and one English owned.
‘Blue Moon’ is right on the river bank and a fantastic place to sit on a summer evening. Cool and relaxing one can sit and watch the geese or the tourist peddle boats and forget all of the worlds’ problems. Yannis, the owner is proud, and rightly so, of his service. Always a smile and a greeting and always that little extra in the way of a free snack. Just off the square is an English run tavern. Sinatra’s is owned by Peter and Katie. Lovely atmosphere and a breakfast to die for. Quiz nights and bingo and anything else they can think of.
I have to go. I am over my allotted word space. See you all next time.
Mike Posted 17th June 2012